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Barbarentage

Barbarentage PDF
Author: William Finnegan
Publisher: Suhrkamp Verlag
Release: 2018-05-07
ISBN: 3518757415
Size: 44.74 MB
Format: PDF, Mobi
Category : Fiction
Languages : de
Pages : 565
View: 3303

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Barbarentage

by William Finnegan, Barbarentage Books available in PDF, EPUB, Mobi Format. Download Barbarentage books, Vor fünfzig Jahren verfällt William Finnegan dem Surfen. Damals verschafft es ihm Respekt, dann jagt es ihn raus in die Welt – Samoa, Indonesien, Australien, Südafrika –, als Familienvater mit Job beim New Yorker dient es der Flucht vor dem Alltag ... Barbarentage erzählt die Geschichte dieser lebenslangen Leidenschaft, sie handelt vom Fernweh, von wahren Abenteuern und den Versuchen, trotz allem ein Träumer zu bleiben. Ein Buch wie das Meer, atemberaubend schön.



Barbarian Days

Barbarian Days PDF
Author: William Finnegan
Publisher: Hachette UK
Release: 2015-08-06
ISBN: 1472151402
Size: 56.60 MB
Format: PDF, ePub
Category : Biography & Autobiography
Languages : en
Pages : 464
View: 2434

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Barbarian Days

by William Finnegan, Barbarian Days Books available in PDF, EPUB, Mobi Format. Download Barbarian Days books, Winner of the Pulitzer Price and William Hill Sports Book of the Year: Barbarian Days is a deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer looking for transcendence 'that recalls early James Salter' (Geoff Dyer, Observer) Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. New Yorker writer William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment. 'Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting; William Burroughs on controlled substances; Updike on adultery. . . . a coming-of-age story, seen through the gloss resin coat of a surfboard' Sports Illustrated



Surfing Life

Surfing Life PDF
Author: Mark Stranger
Publisher: Routledge
Release: 2017-03-02
ISBN: 1351896830
Size: 74.13 MB
Format: PDF, Docs
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 300
View: 3251

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Surfing Life

by Mark Stranger, Surfing Life Books available in PDF, EPUB, Mobi Format. Download Surfing Life books, Surfing Life is a study of surfing and social change that also provides insights into other experience-based contemporary subcultures and the nature of the self and social formations in contemporary society. Making use of extensive empirical material to support innovative theoretical approaches to social change, this book offers an analysis of the relationship between embodied experience, culture and the economy. With its ground breaking theoretical contributions, and its foundation in an ethnographic study of surfing culture in locations across Australia, this volume will appeal not only to those interested in the social and cultural phenomenon of surfing, but also to anyone interested in the sociology of sport and leisure, the sociology of culture and consumption, risk-taking, subcultures and theories of contemporary social change.



The Surfing Life

The Surfing Life PDF
Author: Midget Farrelly
Publisher:
Release: 1967
ISBN:
Size: 22.57 MB
Format: PDF, Docs
Category : Surfing
Languages : en
Pages : 192
View: 7397

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The Surfing Life

by Midget Farrelly, The Surfing Life Books available in PDF, EPUB, Mobi Format. Download The Surfing Life books,



Scratching The Horizon

Scratching the Horizon PDF
Author: Izzy Paskowitz
Publisher: St. Martin's Press
Release: 2012-08-21
ISBN: 1250023998
Size: 31.63 MB
Format: PDF, Kindle
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 304
View: 2145

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Scratching The Horizon

by Izzy Paskowitz, Scratching The Horizon Books available in PDF, EPUB, Mobi Format. Download Scratching The Horizon books, A bitchin' love letter to sand and sea, and a spirited inside account of life with the "first family" of American surfing In 1956, Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz stepped away from a successful medical practice and began a lifelong surfing odyssey that grew to include his wife Juliette, and their nine children. Together, the Paskowitz clan lived a vagabonding bohemian existence, eschewing material possessions in favor of intangible riches like health and good cheer . . . all the while careening along the world's coastlines in search of the perfect wave. In Scratching the Horizon, Izzy Paskowitz looks back at his unusual upbringing, and his lifelong passion for the sport that carries his family's stamp. As the fourth-oldest child in a family of inveterate surfers, rock stars, and beach bums, he is uniquely qualified to shine a light on a childhood that has come to symbolize the surfing credo, a reckless young adulthood that nearly cost him his sanity, and a maturing sense of self and purpose that allows him to lift others on the back of his experience. As the father of a son with autism and the founder of "Surfers Healing," a foundation devoted to expanding the horizons of children with autism through surfing, Paskowitz has found a way to connect the surreal aspects of his childhood to the harsh realities of adulthood, and he shares these discoveries in this wickedly entertaining and transforming memoir.



The History Of Surfing

The History of Surfing PDF
Author: Matt Warshaw
Publisher: Chronicle Books
Release: 2011-04-29
ISBN: 1452100942
Size: 32.66 MB
Format: PDF, Kindle
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages :
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The History Of Surfing

by Matt Warshaw, The History Of Surfing Books available in PDF, EPUB, Mobi Format. Download The History Of Surfing books, Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw has crafted an unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. At nearly 500 pages, with 250,000 words and more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of this endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who will pore through these pages with passion and opinion. A true category killer, here is the definitive history of surfing.



Surfing In The Movies

Surfing in the Movies PDF
Author: John Engle
Publisher: McFarland
Release: 2015-10-05
ISBN: 0786495219
Size: 51.59 MB
Format: PDF, ePub
Category : Performing Arts
Languages : en
Pages : 260
View: 6242

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Surfing In The Movies

by John Engle, Surfing In The Movies Books available in PDF, EPUB, Mobi Format. Download Surfing In The Movies books, Surfing has fascinated filmmakers since Thomas Edison shot footage of Waikiki beachboys in 1906. Before the 1950s surf craze, surfing showed up in travelogues or as exotic background for studio features. The arrival of Gidget (1959) on the big screen swept the sport into popular culture, but surfer-filmmakers were already featuring the day's best surfers in self-narrated two-reelers. Hollywood and independent filmmakers have produced about three dozen surf films in the last half-century, including the frothy Beach Party movies, Point Break (1991) and Chasing Mavericks (2012). From Bud Browne's earliest efforts to The Endless Summer (1966), Riding Giants (2004) and today's brilliant videos, over 1,000 surfing movies have celebrated the stoke. This first full-length study of surf movies gives critical attention to hundreds of the most important films.



Surfing And The Philosophy Of Sport

Surfing and the Philosophy of Sport PDF
Author: Daniel Brennan
Publisher:
Release: 2021-01-15
ISBN: 1793640793
Size: 28.11 MB
Format: PDF, Kindle
Category :
Languages : en
Pages : 202
View: 4845

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Surfing And The Philosophy Of Sport

by Daniel Brennan, Surfing And The Philosophy Of Sport Books available in PDF, EPUB, Mobi Format. Download Surfing And The Philosophy Of Sport books, This book considers the unique perspective found in the sport of surfing for reconsidering questions in the philosophy of sport. Through the lens of surfing Brennan explores questions of ethics, aesthetics, gender equality, the nature of sport, Olympism, technology, and the good life.